News

Jul 21, 2023

Antiques: A 'notion' for sewing dates back longer than you think

If you already know what rantering is or how to godet, you are well ahead of most of us. The history of sewing goes back almost to Adam and Eve and has resulted in a huge range of tools, techniques

If you already know what rantering is or how to godet, you are well ahead of most of us. The history of sewing goes back almost to Adam and Eve and has resulted in a huge range of tools, techniques and terms.

There are at least two dozen different stitches, a dozen or more methods and so many notions that it boggles the mind. Unless you assemble your own clothing with duct tape and glue, you likely have a closet full of examples. Let's examine a patch or two on the quilted history of notions.

First of all, the term "notions" describes the tools and accoutrements used in sewing. That includes all the things you use when darning your socks (needle, thread, thimble) along with everything used by garment factories and bespoke tailors.

In England, a seller of notions is a haberdasher, although in America the word haberdashery more often describes a men's clothing store. Former president Harry Truman famously ran a failed haberdashery before his entry into politics, but things eventually turned out all right for him.

The earliest notions ever found were needles that date back some 25,000 years. These were made of bone and almost certainly used to sew garments and coverings made of fur. Ancient thimbles have also been found that date back to that era, indicating that prehistoric sewers were not immune to sticking their fingers once in a while.

The idea of buttons and buttonholes emerged in Europe during the Crusades when invading Christian armies swept through faraway regions and encountered strange new practices. Some 500 years later, machine-made cotton thread was introduced in England, easing the way for sewers throughout the world.

In fact, the 18th century was a pivotal time for the practice of sewing. The first sewing needle factory was founded in Germany in 1730, followed 25 year later by the development of the mechanical needle. While no sewing machine has been found that dates to that period, such a device was clearly in the works.

Then in 1776, Betsy Ross sewed her way into the history books by constructing the first American flag with its five-pointed stars ... or maybe she didn't. That's the problem with apocryphal history: No one really knows. Nonetheless, it is fact that she made a lot of flags over her long career as a seamstress, including many via government contracts. Her status in the sewing hall of heroes is secure.

And, of course, a lot happened after that. Brass buttons emerged as fasteners of choice during the War of 1812, spurred on by the opening of the Waterbury Button Company. The development of twisted cotton thread followed a few years later, and then the sewing machine came into being during the midcentury years.

Isaac Singer began his run in 1851, and the Singer sewing machine empire was off and running. Today early sewing notions are big items for collectors, having both history and utility on their side. Galleries like ours often have vintage sewing artifacts from around the world, and wonderful assemblies can be collected on the most limited of budgets.

For just a few dollars invested, your own Betsy Ross moment can be right around the corner.

Mike Rivkin and his wife, Linda, are longtime residents of Rancho Mirage. For many years, he was an award-winning catalogue publisher and has authored seven books, along with countless articles. Now, he's the owner of Antique Galleries of Palm Springs. His antiques column appears Sundays in The Desert Sun. Want to send Mike a question about antiques? Drop him a line at [email protected].